A dog's nose not only dominates her face, but her brain, as well. In fact, a dog relies on her sense of smell to interpret her world, in much the same way as people depend on their sight. Although this contrasting world view may be hard to imagine, know that your dog interprets as much information as you do. However, she does much of this by smelling an object or animal, not by staring at it.
Born to sniff
To gain more respect for your dog's olfactory ability, compare it to a person's nose. Inside the nose of both species are bony scroll-shaped plates, called turbinates, over which air passes. A microscopic view of this organ reveals a thick, spongy membrane that contains most of the scent-detecting cells, as well as the nerves that transport information to the brain. In humans, the area containing these odor analyzers is about one square inch, or the size of a postage stamp. If you could unfold this area in a dog, on the other hand, it may be as large as 60 square inches, or just under the size of a piece of typing paper.
Though the size of this surface varies with the size and length of the dog's nose, even flat-nosed breeds can detect smells far better than people. The following table shows the number of scent receptors in people and several dog breeds.
A dog's brain is also specialized for identifying scents. The percentage of the dog's brain that is devoted to analyzing smells is actually 40 times larger than that of a human! It's been estimated that dogs can identify smells somewhere between 1,000 to 10,000 times better than nasally challenged humans can.
Table: Scent-Detecting Cells in People and Dog Breeds
Species
Number of Scent Receptors
Humans
5 million
Dachshund
125 million
Fox Terrier
147 million
Beagle
225 million
German Shepherd
225 million
Bloodhound
300 million
Your dog's unique nose
Your dog's nose has a pattern of ridges and dimples that, in combination with the outline of its nostril openings, make up a nose print believed to be as individual and unique as a human being's fingerprints. Companies even register nose prints as a way of identifying and helping to locate lost or stolen dogs, a system that is now being used by kennel clubs around the world.
If you want to take a nose print from your dog just for fun, it's quite simple: Wipe your dog's nose with a towel to dry its surface. Pour food coloring onto a paper towel and lightly coat your pet's nose with it. Then hold a pad of paper to her nose, making sure to let the pad's sides curve around to pick up impressions from the sides of the nose, as well. You may have to try a couple of times until you get the right amount of food coloring and the right amount of pressure to produce a print in which the little patterns on the nose are clear.
The food coloring is nontoxic and is easily removed. Never use ink or paint, or you may have to explain to your friends why your dog has a green or blue nose.
19/05/2008
18/05/2008
Prepping the House for Your Puppy's Arrival
Prepping your home for a new puppy is much like setting up a nursery. Like formal preparations for bringing home a baby, readying the house before you get your puppy will take a load off your mind when the day finally arrives.
Puppy's room
Your puppy needs her own space to get away from the hubbub. Because a tired puppy can become ornery (just like you), designate a quiet area that can be darkened like a child's nursery. Whether you choose a crate or a gated room, make it cozy by laying down a flat mat and a couple of toys to occupy her when she's restless (think pacifier). Avoid fluffy beds or cushions because both can encourage chewing or accidents. A radio can be placed nearby to play calming music while you're out of the room.
An especially helpful product for puppies is called a SnugglePuppy, which mimics the warmth and comfort of a pup's mom. The substitute companion has a pocket for heating packs and has a motorized beating heart. These features make the SnugglePuppy ideal for easing your puppy's transition from her first family to her final one.
Free play zones
Designate a free play zone, which is an enclosed room for play and interaction. A carpet-free space is ideal — especially if your puppy isn't housebroken. Roll up area rugs too because the fringe and corners may tempt a pup to chew, and the absorbent texture may prompt elimination. Tape wires down, remove low-sitting temptations, and place your shoes elsewhere. You can also create a play station in this room (see the next section).
If your free play zone will correspond with another pet's domain, reorganize their area well in advance of the puppy's arrival. For example, if your cat's bowls and litter box are within the puppy's area, relocate them ahead of time so that your cat won't feel displaced by the new arrival.
Play stations
Help your puppy identify an area of the free play zone that is home base. This area will be your puppy's play station. Place a flat mat, folded quilt, or bed in a spot set off or portioned by walls. Put your puppy's toys and bones on the mat, and if possible, arrange her dishes nearby. Sit there with your puppy and treat her so she thinks that area is special. If you make this area the focal point of your interactions, your puppy will bond to it quickly.
As you introduce new rooms in the house, either bring your play station or create a permanent one in this room. Your puppy should have a pre-established play station in each room you plan to share.
If you're adopting an older puppy, create play stations in every room and she'll always feel welcomed.
Feeding areas
Feed your puppy by her play station in her free play zone or, if she's easily distracted, in her crate. Place one dish for water and one for food. Take up the bowls at appropriate times and wash the dishes after every feeding.
The route
Whether you're paper training or teaching your puppy to go potty outside, decide on a route through shared rooms to the door or papered location. Place papers in the decided area or select a door and potty area no more than 10 to 20 feet from your home's entrance.
Puppy's room
Your puppy needs her own space to get away from the hubbub. Because a tired puppy can become ornery (just like you), designate a quiet area that can be darkened like a child's nursery. Whether you choose a crate or a gated room, make it cozy by laying down a flat mat and a couple of toys to occupy her when she's restless (think pacifier). Avoid fluffy beds or cushions because both can encourage chewing or accidents. A radio can be placed nearby to play calming music while you're out of the room.
An especially helpful product for puppies is called a SnugglePuppy, which mimics the warmth and comfort of a pup's mom. The substitute companion has a pocket for heating packs and has a motorized beating heart. These features make the SnugglePuppy ideal for easing your puppy's transition from her first family to her final one.
Free play zones
Designate a free play zone, which is an enclosed room for play and interaction. A carpet-free space is ideal — especially if your puppy isn't housebroken. Roll up area rugs too because the fringe and corners may tempt a pup to chew, and the absorbent texture may prompt elimination. Tape wires down, remove low-sitting temptations, and place your shoes elsewhere. You can also create a play station in this room (see the next section).
If your free play zone will correspond with another pet's domain, reorganize their area well in advance of the puppy's arrival. For example, if your cat's bowls and litter box are within the puppy's area, relocate them ahead of time so that your cat won't feel displaced by the new arrival.
Play stations
Help your puppy identify an area of the free play zone that is home base. This area will be your puppy's play station. Place a flat mat, folded quilt, or bed in a spot set off or portioned by walls. Put your puppy's toys and bones on the mat, and if possible, arrange her dishes nearby. Sit there with your puppy and treat her so she thinks that area is special. If you make this area the focal point of your interactions, your puppy will bond to it quickly.
As you introduce new rooms in the house, either bring your play station or create a permanent one in this room. Your puppy should have a pre-established play station in each room you plan to share.
If you're adopting an older puppy, create play stations in every room and she'll always feel welcomed.
Feeding areas
Feed your puppy by her play station in her free play zone or, if she's easily distracted, in her crate. Place one dish for water and one for food. Take up the bowls at appropriate times and wash the dishes after every feeding.
The route
Whether you're paper training or teaching your puppy to go potty outside, decide on a route through shared rooms to the door or papered location. Place papers in the decided area or select a door and potty area no more than 10 to 20 feet from your home's entrance.
Winterizing Your Beagle
Keeping your Beagle happy, healthy, and comfortable in all seasons isn't hard to do. The Snoopy-dog is a hardy soul, and a few adjustments are all that's needed to keep her in tip-top condition all year round, especially during the winter.
Caring for dry skin and paws
The winter-time Beagle may experience the same cold-weather phenomenon as the winter-time human: dry, flaky skin. But while human beings can slather on moisturizers and lotions to combat the dryness, your Beagle's dry skin may need treatment from within. Make sure your dog gets plenty of water, and talk with your veterinarian about adding fatty acid supplements to her diet.
We humans have lots of shoes and boots with which to cover our feet during the winter, but dogs generally have the dubious pleasure of walking barefoot over snow and ice. Be considerate of your Beagle. If she's running outside in the snow, make sure you remove any snow or ice that's accumulated between her toes after she gets inside. Leaving those little ice balls intact can spread your Beagle's toes in a most uncomfortable fashion.
During the winter, your considerate neighbors may sprinkle rock salt on their sidewalks to make them less slippery. But while that salt helps keep you upright, it causes your Beagle's sensitive paw pads to dry out and burn. When you and your pooch walk outside during snow season, try to avoid walking her over salted surfaces. If you can't avoid those surfaces, thoroughly rinse your Beagle's feet with warm water when you come back inside.
Bundling up Beagle
Does your Beagle need a sweater to keep her toasty warm during the winter? Probably not, but that doesn't mean she wouldn't appreciate a little help staying warm during those cold winter walks. Pet stores and upscale pet clothing catalogs abound with sweaters and coats to protect Beagles and other canine snow-bunnies (how's that for a contradiction in terms?) from the ravages of harsh winter weather.
How do you know which size is right for your Beagle? First, stretch a tape measure from the base of her neck to the base of her tail. This is her top line measurement. Then, measure her chest by wrapping the tape measure around her trunk at the widest point, just behind her front legs. Those two measurements can help you determine your Beagle's clothing size. Generally, Beagles wear a medium — but as with so many other issues, your mileage may vary.
Caring for dry skin and paws
The winter-time Beagle may experience the same cold-weather phenomenon as the winter-time human: dry, flaky skin. But while human beings can slather on moisturizers and lotions to combat the dryness, your Beagle's dry skin may need treatment from within. Make sure your dog gets plenty of water, and talk with your veterinarian about adding fatty acid supplements to her diet.
We humans have lots of shoes and boots with which to cover our feet during the winter, but dogs generally have the dubious pleasure of walking barefoot over snow and ice. Be considerate of your Beagle. If she's running outside in the snow, make sure you remove any snow or ice that's accumulated between her toes after she gets inside. Leaving those little ice balls intact can spread your Beagle's toes in a most uncomfortable fashion.
During the winter, your considerate neighbors may sprinkle rock salt on their sidewalks to make them less slippery. But while that salt helps keep you upright, it causes your Beagle's sensitive paw pads to dry out and burn. When you and your pooch walk outside during snow season, try to avoid walking her over salted surfaces. If you can't avoid those surfaces, thoroughly rinse your Beagle's feet with warm water when you come back inside.
Bundling up Beagle
Does your Beagle need a sweater to keep her toasty warm during the winter? Probably not, but that doesn't mean she wouldn't appreciate a little help staying warm during those cold winter walks. Pet stores and upscale pet clothing catalogs abound with sweaters and coats to protect Beagles and other canine snow-bunnies (how's that for a contradiction in terms?) from the ravages of harsh winter weather.
How do you know which size is right for your Beagle? First, stretch a tape measure from the base of her neck to the base of her tail. This is her top line measurement. Then, measure her chest by wrapping the tape measure around her trunk at the widest point, just behind her front legs. Those two measurements can help you determine your Beagle's clothing size. Generally, Beagles wear a medium — but as with so many other issues, your mileage may vary.
Assembling a First-Aid Kit for Your Dog
A basic, in-home first-aid kit could prove invaluable as you and your dog go through life together. You could have your dog from puppyhood to old age and never encounter an emergency situation — or you could face numerous emergencies throughout your dog's life. You don't know if or when emergency will strike, but being prepared for any disaster puts you ahead of the game.
Following are all the items you need in a basic, in-home first-aid kit. Though you may not need all the items listed here at any one time in your dog's life, it's a good idea to at least own them and know where you keep them.
First-aid book
Adhesive tape or self-sticking Vet Wrap
Cotton balls
Square gauze pads, 3 x 3 inches
Instant hot/cold packs
Cotton-tipped applicators (like Q-tips)
Antibacterial ointment (like Neosporin or Bacitracin)
Bitter Apple cream and/or spray
Hydrogen peroxide
Clotisol (clotting cream)
Activated charcoal (in case of poisoning)
Tweezers and small, sharp scissors
Thermometer (Note: A dog's normal temperature is 101 degrees F. You can buy ear thermometers for pets at most major pet-supply stores.)
Aloe-vera gel (to sooth scrapes and cuts)
Canine antidiarrhea medication (such as Metronidazole, an antibiotic available from your veterinarian) (Note: Human over-the-counter antidiarrhea medications often don't work at all with dogs.)
Rubber gloves
Muzzle (Note: Many injured dogs bite first and ask questions later.)
Something you can use for a stretcher, such as a board, blanket, or floor mat
If you're hiking, camping, boating, or engaging in some other outdoor activities with your dog, place the following items in a zip-top plastic bag and toss it in your backpack:
Fresh water, at least 1 pint
Antiseptic wipes
Sterile gauze pads
Antibacterial ointment
Self-adhesive stretchable wrap, such as Vet Wrap
Bite/sting stop
Tweezers
Following are all the items you need in a basic, in-home first-aid kit. Though you may not need all the items listed here at any one time in your dog's life, it's a good idea to at least own them and know where you keep them.
First-aid book
Adhesive tape or self-sticking Vet Wrap
Cotton balls
Square gauze pads, 3 x 3 inches
Instant hot/cold packs
Cotton-tipped applicators (like Q-tips)
Antibacterial ointment (like Neosporin or Bacitracin)
Bitter Apple cream and/or spray
Hydrogen peroxide
Clotisol (clotting cream)
Activated charcoal (in case of poisoning)
Tweezers and small, sharp scissors
Thermometer (Note: A dog's normal temperature is 101 degrees F. You can buy ear thermometers for pets at most major pet-supply stores.)
Aloe-vera gel (to sooth scrapes and cuts)
Canine antidiarrhea medication (such as Metronidazole, an antibiotic available from your veterinarian) (Note: Human over-the-counter antidiarrhea medications often don't work at all with dogs.)
Rubber gloves
Muzzle (Note: Many injured dogs bite first and ask questions later.)
Something you can use for a stretcher, such as a board, blanket, or floor mat
If you're hiking, camping, boating, or engaging in some other outdoor activities with your dog, place the following items in a zip-top plastic bag and toss it in your backpack:
Fresh water, at least 1 pint
Antiseptic wipes
Sterile gauze pads
Antibacterial ointment
Self-adhesive stretchable wrap, such as Vet Wrap
Bite/sting stop
Tweezers
Beagle-Proofing Your Yard
Your Beagle needs clear, consistent boundaries not only to stay in your good graces, but also just to stay safe. Those boundaries start with the outdoors: specifically, with enclosing part or your entire yard so it's escape-proof.
Fencing comes in a wide variety of materials and price ranges, but the most important consideration for the fence-building Beagle owner is that whatever you build be impermeable. Ask your local hardware store or fencing professional what materials best keep Beagles on their own turf. After you or the contractor start to install the fence, make very sure that no openings or crevices exist above or below ground that may allow your Beagle to make a bid for freedom. And check at least weekly after installation is complete: Beagles are masters at fashioning creative escape routes by digging under or chewing holes in fences.
Going for an electronic fence
For many Beagle owners, the prospect of installing conventional fencing either offends their visual tastes or wreaks havoc on their household budgets. Either way, electronic fencing appears to provide an attractive, cost-saving alternative. After installing underground wiring around the perimeter of your property, you buckle a special collar around your dog's neck. If he crosses your property line, he receives a mild electrical shock.
Unfortunately, all too many Beagles and other breeds venture beyond their property lines despite getting shocked — but then refuse to come back to their domiciles because they don't want another mini-jolt. And that's not the only potential problem with electronic fencing; another is that other dogs, animals, or people can cross freely into your yard, but your Beagle can't get away from them unless she's willing to risk getting shocked. In other words, electronic fencing can make your dog more vulnerable to being attacked or stolen.
The bottom line: Don't rely on electronic fencing to contain your little hound. The Beagle who gets lost could be your own.
Deciding against an electric fence
If you choose not to install a fence, don't let your Beagle out in your yard without your holding the other end of a leash. No matter how much your little hound loves you, she'll love the great outdoors more. If she gets the chance to explore the world beyond the backyard without being tethered to you, she will jump at it — and the results could be tragic. Some dog owners install an electronic fence thinking it will protect their Beagle just as well as a traditional fence.
Even though you've provided an outdoor play area for your Beagle, don't leave him outdoors unattended. The great outdoors, even within the confines of your yard, offers too many hazards for your little hound — hazards that range from dangerous plants to kids' toys to uncovered swimming pools. When your Beagle's outside, be there with him — or at least be watching him from a reasonable distance (that is, close enough to get to him quickly if necessary).
Fencing comes in a wide variety of materials and price ranges, but the most important consideration for the fence-building Beagle owner is that whatever you build be impermeable. Ask your local hardware store or fencing professional what materials best keep Beagles on their own turf. After you or the contractor start to install the fence, make very sure that no openings or crevices exist above or below ground that may allow your Beagle to make a bid for freedom. And check at least weekly after installation is complete: Beagles are masters at fashioning creative escape routes by digging under or chewing holes in fences.
Going for an electronic fence
For many Beagle owners, the prospect of installing conventional fencing either offends their visual tastes or wreaks havoc on their household budgets. Either way, electronic fencing appears to provide an attractive, cost-saving alternative. After installing underground wiring around the perimeter of your property, you buckle a special collar around your dog's neck. If he crosses your property line, he receives a mild electrical shock.
Unfortunately, all too many Beagles and other breeds venture beyond their property lines despite getting shocked — but then refuse to come back to their domiciles because they don't want another mini-jolt. And that's not the only potential problem with electronic fencing; another is that other dogs, animals, or people can cross freely into your yard, but your Beagle can't get away from them unless she's willing to risk getting shocked. In other words, electronic fencing can make your dog more vulnerable to being attacked or stolen.
The bottom line: Don't rely on electronic fencing to contain your little hound. The Beagle who gets lost could be your own.
Deciding against an electric fence
If you choose not to install a fence, don't let your Beagle out in your yard without your holding the other end of a leash. No matter how much your little hound loves you, she'll love the great outdoors more. If she gets the chance to explore the world beyond the backyard without being tethered to you, she will jump at it — and the results could be tragic. Some dog owners install an electronic fence thinking it will protect their Beagle just as well as a traditional fence.
Even though you've provided an outdoor play area for your Beagle, don't leave him outdoors unattended. The great outdoors, even within the confines of your yard, offers too many hazards for your little hound — hazards that range from dangerous plants to kids' toys to uncovered swimming pools. When your Beagle's outside, be there with him — or at least be watching him from a reasonable distance (that is, close enough to get to him quickly if necessary).
Reducing Separation Anxiety in Your Chihuahua
Most mature dogs catch a nap when their owners leave the house, but some pitch a fit when they're home alone. They may chew on the carpet, shred the toilet paper, urinate, bark nonstop, or any combination of other destructive behaviors. You're probably thinking, poor owners. But believe it or not, the destructive dogs are miserable, too. They have a problem called separation anxiety.
To understand separation anxiety in dogs, consider phobias people have. Some people are afraid of heights, others are afraid of tight places, and still others are afraid of the water, or snakes or spiders. Well, dogs are social creatures, and some of them are afraid of being alone. They panic, pure and simple, and then make noise or destroy stuff to release pent-up nervous energy.
Exits and entrances
Some dogs seem to be born with tendencies toward separation anxiety. Others develop it after a major change . . . like their owner's divorce, or being given up for adoption. But a surprising number of dogs catch the problem from their owner. It sounds something like this:
"Oh, poor, poor Pepe. I'm leaving now. Are you gonna miss me? Are you? I'm gonna miss you. Poor sweetums. You'll be all alone. (kiss, kiss) Now you'll be a good boy won't you? Give mama a kiss. That's my boy. Poor baby. I'll be back soon. I promise (kiss, kiss)."
And then the owner leaves.
Now what does Pepe make out of all of this? He just got a lot of attention and sympathy, and then his human left. Maybe she's not coming back. Maybe he'll never see her again. Maybe he'll never see anyone ever again. No wonder he feels anxious.
The best way to prevent separation anxiety is to make comings and goings low key. Ignore Pepe for ten minutes before you leave, and take him for granted when you return. That's easy. But what can you do for a dog that already suffers from the problem?
Alleviating anxiety
Let's start with what you shouldn't do. If Pepe becomes a demolition demon when home alone, the worst — yes, the absolute worst — thing you can do is punish him when you get back. All that does is give him additional anxiety. Instead of being scared only when you leave, he also is terrified of your return. That means double trouble.
Okay. You know you have a problem, so don't set up your dog for another dreadful day of demolition. Instead, crate him comfortably when you leave the house. In addition to keeping him out of trouble, being in his own den may calm Pepe. Yes, that's a just a quick fix and doesn't actually cure the problem. But it's a start. We have to start somewhere, and keeping Pepe out of trouble so he doesn't sense your aggravation is the best possible place.
Don't make the mistake of thinking your dog has human emotions. He doesn't tear up the house out of spite because you left him alone. And he certainly doesn't have fun doing it. Instead, he's miserable. Separation anxiety can be compared to a person with claustrophobia getting stuck in an elevator. Pepe needs help, not punishment.
You must alleviate Pepe's anxiety problem when he has the run of the house (or even a whole room). To do this, leave the house frequently for short periods of time. Eventually that teaches Pepe that comings and goings are unimportant because you always return. Here's how to set up your scenarios:
1. Take Pepe outside to eliminate about 10 minutes before you leave.
2. Turn on the radio and make sure two of his favorite toys are available.
3. Leave Pepe's crate in its normal place with the door open, so he can go inside if he wants to.
4. Don't say good-bye or reassure Pepe in any way. In fact, don't give him any attention at all for several minutes before you leave.
5. Leave, close the door behind you, and count to ten. Open the door, go inside, and ignore Pepe for a minute or two. Then tell him to "Sit" and praise him for obeying.
6. Gradually increase the amount of time before you come home. Make progress slowly at first. Take two weeks to go from 10 seconds to 10 minutes.
7. If you find a puddle, or the beginning of any destruction, don't call it to Pepe's attention, but make a mental note of how long you were gone. Next time, decrease the amount of time you stay away. Then gradually work your way back up.
With a lot of practice (and patience, too) you may be able to work your way up to spending a few hours away from home without Pepe having an anxiety attack. Unfortunately, it doesn't work with every dog. If your dog doesn't learn to accept separations, he may need professional help. Ask your veterinarian for referral to a behaviorist (if you're lucky, there may even be a Board-certified veterinary behaviorist in your area). The solution will include desensitization work, and may include a temporary prescription of a drug to help keep him calm as he completes his desensitization program.
If your dog has overcome separation anxiety, put him in a reputable boarding kennel when you go on vacation instead of hiring a dogwalker or housesitter. Otherwise, your leaving home and not returning for a week or more could make him regress.
To understand separation anxiety in dogs, consider phobias people have. Some people are afraid of heights, others are afraid of tight places, and still others are afraid of the water, or snakes or spiders. Well, dogs are social creatures, and some of them are afraid of being alone. They panic, pure and simple, and then make noise or destroy stuff to release pent-up nervous energy.
Exits and entrances
Some dogs seem to be born with tendencies toward separation anxiety. Others develop it after a major change . . . like their owner's divorce, or being given up for adoption. But a surprising number of dogs catch the problem from their owner. It sounds something like this:
"Oh, poor, poor Pepe. I'm leaving now. Are you gonna miss me? Are you? I'm gonna miss you. Poor sweetums. You'll be all alone. (kiss, kiss) Now you'll be a good boy won't you? Give mama a kiss. That's my boy. Poor baby. I'll be back soon. I promise (kiss, kiss)."
And then the owner leaves.
Now what does Pepe make out of all of this? He just got a lot of attention and sympathy, and then his human left. Maybe she's not coming back. Maybe he'll never see her again. Maybe he'll never see anyone ever again. No wonder he feels anxious.
The best way to prevent separation anxiety is to make comings and goings low key. Ignore Pepe for ten minutes before you leave, and take him for granted when you return. That's easy. But what can you do for a dog that already suffers from the problem?
Alleviating anxiety
Let's start with what you shouldn't do. If Pepe becomes a demolition demon when home alone, the worst — yes, the absolute worst — thing you can do is punish him when you get back. All that does is give him additional anxiety. Instead of being scared only when you leave, he also is terrified of your return. That means double trouble.
Okay. You know you have a problem, so don't set up your dog for another dreadful day of demolition. Instead, crate him comfortably when you leave the house. In addition to keeping him out of trouble, being in his own den may calm Pepe. Yes, that's a just a quick fix and doesn't actually cure the problem. But it's a start. We have to start somewhere, and keeping Pepe out of trouble so he doesn't sense your aggravation is the best possible place.
Don't make the mistake of thinking your dog has human emotions. He doesn't tear up the house out of spite because you left him alone. And he certainly doesn't have fun doing it. Instead, he's miserable. Separation anxiety can be compared to a person with claustrophobia getting stuck in an elevator. Pepe needs help, not punishment.
You must alleviate Pepe's anxiety problem when he has the run of the house (or even a whole room). To do this, leave the house frequently for short periods of time. Eventually that teaches Pepe that comings and goings are unimportant because you always return. Here's how to set up your scenarios:
1. Take Pepe outside to eliminate about 10 minutes before you leave.
2. Turn on the radio and make sure two of his favorite toys are available.
3. Leave Pepe's crate in its normal place with the door open, so he can go inside if he wants to.
4. Don't say good-bye or reassure Pepe in any way. In fact, don't give him any attention at all for several minutes before you leave.
5. Leave, close the door behind you, and count to ten. Open the door, go inside, and ignore Pepe for a minute or two. Then tell him to "Sit" and praise him for obeying.
6. Gradually increase the amount of time before you come home. Make progress slowly at first. Take two weeks to go from 10 seconds to 10 minutes.
7. If you find a puddle, or the beginning of any destruction, don't call it to Pepe's attention, but make a mental note of how long you were gone. Next time, decrease the amount of time you stay away. Then gradually work your way back up.
With a lot of practice (and patience, too) you may be able to work your way up to spending a few hours away from home without Pepe having an anxiety attack. Unfortunately, it doesn't work with every dog. If your dog doesn't learn to accept separations, he may need professional help. Ask your veterinarian for referral to a behaviorist (if you're lucky, there may even be a Board-certified veterinary behaviorist in your area). The solution will include desensitization work, and may include a temporary prescription of a drug to help keep him calm as he completes his desensitization program.
If your dog has overcome separation anxiety, put him in a reputable boarding kennel when you go on vacation instead of hiring a dogwalker or housesitter. Otherwise, your leaving home and not returning for a week or more could make him regress.
Giving Herbs to Pets
You can save your pets needless trauma and save yourself expensive veterinary bills by using your herbal medicine chest or herb garden as a pet pharmacy. To start using healing pet herbs, try these common and safe remedies. Your furry friends will benefit.
Cuts and scratches: Make a tea of calendula flowers and spray it on the affected area. Or apply calendula salve, though be aware that animals are apt to lick it off — you may want to wrap the area with a cloth.
Ear infections and ear mites: Use garlic-mullein ear oil, 3 to 4 drops, 2 times daily.
Dogs and cats have especially long ear channels, so it's good to massage the ears to get the oil to go down. Animals often like to have their ears massaged anyway, especially when they're having trouble with them. If your pet is sensitive to touch, and if the sensitivity persists, call your vet.
Eye infections or watery eyes: Use a well-strained goldenseal tea as an eyewash. Be sure to buy cultivated goldenseal, as the wild populations have been seriously overharvested. Eyebright herb tea is an effective second choice.
Fleas: To prevent fleas from hopping on pets, you can make an herbal flea collar by dipping a string into a combination of essential oils containing eucalyptus, citronella, and sage and tying it around your pet's neck. Yarrow tincture sprayed onto affected areas can discourage fleas.
Use orange oil to kill fleas when your pet does get an infection. Add one-half teaspoon orange oil to a quarter cup of people shampoo. Then shampoo the animal, covering them with suds. Start at the neck and work down, so that too many fleas don't end up right on your pet's face. Then, rinse it off. If it's a really bad case, do it again in two days and vacuum the house thoroughly at the same time. (Make sure that you toss the vacuum cleaner bag so that you don't provide a breeding ground for your pest population.)
Do not apply undiluted essential oils directly to the skin where they can be licked off and make your cat or dog sick. For troublesome areas, though, you can mix 20 drops of eucalyptus oil in 2 ounces of almond oil to apply directly. Work the blend well into the hair.
Foxtails: If your pet gets objects caught under the skin or between the toes, you can make a fresh plantain poultice or comfrey poultice by putting fresh leaves in a blender with a little water and blending it up. Apply the poultice to the area. This remedy even works for foxtails, the stickery type of grass seeds that often plague animals.
Hyperactivity: Add calming teas or a few droppersful of a relaxing tincture like valerian, chamomile, or California poppy to your pet's water dish. Capsules and tablets are available if you can get pets to swallow them.
Consider the calming effects of St. John's wort for pets. For a small dog, use about one-fourth to one-half teaspoonful of the liquid tincture added to water or food, one or two times daily.
Infections: When your pet gets an infection, you can often help him heal quickly by giving low doses of echinacea tincture (five to ten drops, three to four times daily, for one week). In general, when using tinctures, adjust the dose for the animal's size — the label dosage is generally meant for a 150-pound human.
Lung problems: Make a mullein tea and put it in the water bowl or pour it over your pet's food.
Skin problems and hair loss: Calendula salve is a good healer for skin problems, but give an internal blood-cleansing herb, such as red clover flowers or yellow dock root, at the same time. You can also make a tea of burdock root and sarsaparilla root for skin problems. Horsetail herb and nettle leaf tea are both used to prevent hair loss. You can also massage the skin with a few drops of rosemary oil diluted in almond oil.
Urinary tract infections: You can use soothing urinary tract herbs that help reduce infection and strengthen tissue. Besides echinacea, which is a must for any infection, try some beneficial herbs that have a special affinity for the urinary tract like pipsissewa or uva-ursi. If you have an herb garden, brew a little fresh yarrow or plantain leaves and add them to your pet's water.
Worms: Garlic is a good preventive for parasites. Chop it into your pet's food or use a powder. If you start this practice when your pets are young, they develop a taste for it. If prevention fails, and they actually get worms, you may have to use garlic capsules to get rid of the parasites.
For disease prevention, give your pets proper nutrition, adequate opportunities for exercise, and plenty of tender loving care. Most pets like stroking and petting, which definitely have an immune-enhancing effect.
Cuts and scratches: Make a tea of calendula flowers and spray it on the affected area. Or apply calendula salve, though be aware that animals are apt to lick it off — you may want to wrap the area with a cloth.
Ear infections and ear mites: Use garlic-mullein ear oil, 3 to 4 drops, 2 times daily.
Dogs and cats have especially long ear channels, so it's good to massage the ears to get the oil to go down. Animals often like to have their ears massaged anyway, especially when they're having trouble with them. If your pet is sensitive to touch, and if the sensitivity persists, call your vet.
Eye infections or watery eyes: Use a well-strained goldenseal tea as an eyewash. Be sure to buy cultivated goldenseal, as the wild populations have been seriously overharvested. Eyebright herb tea is an effective second choice.
Fleas: To prevent fleas from hopping on pets, you can make an herbal flea collar by dipping a string into a combination of essential oils containing eucalyptus, citronella, and sage and tying it around your pet's neck. Yarrow tincture sprayed onto affected areas can discourage fleas.
Use orange oil to kill fleas when your pet does get an infection. Add one-half teaspoon orange oil to a quarter cup of people shampoo. Then shampoo the animal, covering them with suds. Start at the neck and work down, so that too many fleas don't end up right on your pet's face. Then, rinse it off. If it's a really bad case, do it again in two days and vacuum the house thoroughly at the same time. (Make sure that you toss the vacuum cleaner bag so that you don't provide a breeding ground for your pest population.)
Do not apply undiluted essential oils directly to the skin where they can be licked off and make your cat or dog sick. For troublesome areas, though, you can mix 20 drops of eucalyptus oil in 2 ounces of almond oil to apply directly. Work the blend well into the hair.
Foxtails: If your pet gets objects caught under the skin or between the toes, you can make a fresh plantain poultice or comfrey poultice by putting fresh leaves in a blender with a little water and blending it up. Apply the poultice to the area. This remedy even works for foxtails, the stickery type of grass seeds that often plague animals.
Hyperactivity: Add calming teas or a few droppersful of a relaxing tincture like valerian, chamomile, or California poppy to your pet's water dish. Capsules and tablets are available if you can get pets to swallow them.
Consider the calming effects of St. John's wort for pets. For a small dog, use about one-fourth to one-half teaspoonful of the liquid tincture added to water or food, one or two times daily.
Infections: When your pet gets an infection, you can often help him heal quickly by giving low doses of echinacea tincture (five to ten drops, three to four times daily, for one week). In general, when using tinctures, adjust the dose for the animal's size — the label dosage is generally meant for a 150-pound human.
Lung problems: Make a mullein tea and put it in the water bowl or pour it over your pet's food.
Skin problems and hair loss: Calendula salve is a good healer for skin problems, but give an internal blood-cleansing herb, such as red clover flowers or yellow dock root, at the same time. You can also make a tea of burdock root and sarsaparilla root for skin problems. Horsetail herb and nettle leaf tea are both used to prevent hair loss. You can also massage the skin with a few drops of rosemary oil diluted in almond oil.
Urinary tract infections: You can use soothing urinary tract herbs that help reduce infection and strengthen tissue. Besides echinacea, which is a must for any infection, try some beneficial herbs that have a special affinity for the urinary tract like pipsissewa or uva-ursi. If you have an herb garden, brew a little fresh yarrow or plantain leaves and add them to your pet's water.
Worms: Garlic is a good preventive for parasites. Chop it into your pet's food or use a powder. If you start this practice when your pets are young, they develop a taste for it. If prevention fails, and they actually get worms, you may have to use garlic capsules to get rid of the parasites.
For disease prevention, give your pets proper nutrition, adequate opportunities for exercise, and plenty of tender loving care. Most pets like stroking and petting, which definitely have an immune-enhancing effect.
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