02/11/2008
13/06/2008
Clipping Your Poodle
Your Poodle needs to be clipped on a regular schedule — whether you do the clipping yourself or pay a professional. Any clips other than the required show-ring clips are pet clips. Most pet Poodles are kept in fairly simple, easily maintained clips.
When deciding on a clip for your Poodle, go with your preferences, but remember that the longer the coat is, the more brushing and combing you'll need to do. Consider following types of pet clips that may fit your vision for your Poodle's coat.
The kennel clip. The kennel clip is the shortest clip and the easiest to do and maintain. It's ideal for Poodles who hike in the woods, play on the beach, or go swimming. The Poodle's face, feet, and tail are shaved; she also has a scissored topknot and a tail pompon. The body and legs are the same length and quite short, usually under 1/2 inch long. The ears may be full, shortened, or completely clipped.
The sporting clip. The sporting clip is similar to the kennel clip, but the legs are longer than the body and scissored to blend into the body. The body is often as much as one inch long, with the leg length in proportion to the body length.
The lamb trim. The lamb trim is a longer version of the sporting clip, with the body and legs as long as you wish, often as long as two or three inches.
The puppy clip. In the puppy clip, the Poodle's face, feet, and tail are shaved, with a pompon left on the tail and the rest of the coat left long. The hindquarters, chest, and legs are shaped with scissors to blend in with the longer hair on the rest of the body. These areas should blend smoothly into the body and show no abrupt change in length. If the body hair is shortened, it isn't a true puppy clip.
Show Poodles may be, and usually are, kept in a puppy clip until they are a year old. Pet Poodles are usually clipped into a shorter pet clip when the long hair becomes more work to keep brushed.
The modified puppy clip. The modified puppy clip is similar to the true puppy clip, but the topknot is shaped and the entire body is shortened with scissors.
The teddy bear clip. Strictly speaking, the teddy bear clip isn't a clip because clippers aren't used; the entire body is shortened and shaped with scissors. The body, legs, and tail are usually a couple of inches long, with no changes in lengths on different parts of the body. The topknot is shortened and rounded, but not in a cap as in other clips. The face, feet, and tail are scissored to blend with the body, not shaved.
This trim can be very cute, especially on smaller Poodles, but it's high maintenance and needs frequent brushing. You'll need to check your Poodle twice a day to be sure that the rear is clean and to wipe her face with a damp cloth and dry it to keep it clear of food and dampness.
When deciding on a clip for your Poodle, go with your preferences, but remember that the longer the coat is, the more brushing and combing you'll need to do. Consider following types of pet clips that may fit your vision for your Poodle's coat.
The kennel clip. The kennel clip is the shortest clip and the easiest to do and maintain. It's ideal for Poodles who hike in the woods, play on the beach, or go swimming. The Poodle's face, feet, and tail are shaved; she also has a scissored topknot and a tail pompon. The body and legs are the same length and quite short, usually under 1/2 inch long. The ears may be full, shortened, or completely clipped.
The sporting clip. The sporting clip is similar to the kennel clip, but the legs are longer than the body and scissored to blend into the body. The body is often as much as one inch long, with the leg length in proportion to the body length.
The lamb trim. The lamb trim is a longer version of the sporting clip, with the body and legs as long as you wish, often as long as two or three inches.
The puppy clip. In the puppy clip, the Poodle's face, feet, and tail are shaved, with a pompon left on the tail and the rest of the coat left long. The hindquarters, chest, and legs are shaped with scissors to blend in with the longer hair on the rest of the body. These areas should blend smoothly into the body and show no abrupt change in length. If the body hair is shortened, it isn't a true puppy clip.
Show Poodles may be, and usually are, kept in a puppy clip until they are a year old. Pet Poodles are usually clipped into a shorter pet clip when the long hair becomes more work to keep brushed.
The modified puppy clip. The modified puppy clip is similar to the true puppy clip, but the topknot is shaped and the entire body is shortened with scissors.
The teddy bear clip. Strictly speaking, the teddy bear clip isn't a clip because clippers aren't used; the entire body is shortened and shaped with scissors. The body, legs, and tail are usually a couple of inches long, with no changes in lengths on different parts of the body. The topknot is shortened and rounded, but not in a cap as in other clips. The face, feet, and tail are scissored to blend with the body, not shaved.
This trim can be very cute, especially on smaller Poodles, but it's high maintenance and needs frequent brushing. You'll need to check your Poodle twice a day to be sure that the rear is clean and to wipe her face with a damp cloth and dry it to keep it clear of food and dampness.
12/06/2008
Adapting the Environment for Your Senior Dog
Dogs are incredibly adaptable individuals, so a senior pooch with mobility issues will most likely do whatever he can to keep himself moving when necessary. But you can help him deal with his loss of locomotion by adjusting his environment to meet his current needs.
Getting around your home and into your car may be easy for you, but for a dog who has locomotion limitations, home turf and car entry may seem like obstacle courses. Slippery floors, steep stairs, high-car entrances, and chilly indoor temperatures can make your creaky-jointed pooch uncomfortable. You can make minor alterations that ease your pooch's pain and lessen the challenge of negotiating her home turf.
Some alterations you may want to make include
Ramping up. If your senior companion can't hop up into your car the way she used to, make it possible for her to forego hopping altogether. You can get a slanted ramp that lets her walk up into your car rather than jump into it — which gives her sore muscles and joints some much-needed relief and spares you from lifting her into the car.
When you're not using your doggy ramp, tuck it behind the driver's seat. Such placement prevents the ramp from becoming an airborne missile if you must stop suddenly.
Stepping up. Senior dogs who can't get themselves up on a couch or human bed will probably welcome some carpeted steps to preclude the need for jumping. A company called Dog Bed Works sells such products in two-step, three-step, and four-step sizes.
Bedding down. Sure, your dog didn't mind sleeping on the cold, hard floor when she was younger — but now that she's older, she may enjoy having some heat and some cushioning. Soft, cushy beds can cradle your four-legged friend in soft-as-a-cloud comfort. Orthopedic beds —also known as egg-crate beds, because the mattress looks like the inside of an empty egg carton — have special foam linings that can add to your dog's luxury. Some orthopedic beds even have heating elements to increase that sense of ease. You can find good dog beds, orthopedic and otherwise, at any pet superstore.
To keep your senior comfy no matter where she is, try placing beds not only where she usually sleeps at night, but also at other favorite places in your home. There's no law against a dog having more than one bed!
Giving her some stockings. Many older dogs have calluses on their elbows from years of lying on hard floors and other surfaces. The constant rubbing of the dogs' elbow on the floor causes the hair to wear away and the exposed skin to thicken. A callus can actually protect the elbows, but if it gets painful, a product called DogLeggs can help. The product looks like a stocking that's open at both ends, and it's lined with fleece. Simply pull the stocking over your dog's paw, onto her leg, and over her elbow. You can order one or more pairs of DogLeggs, which are custom-fit to your dog's measurements.
De-flooring it. Bare floors can be tough on your older pooch because they don't offer any traction. You could install wall-to-wall carpeting in your home, but a cheaper option is to add some rugs in strategic places. Make sure, though, that the rugs adhere to the floor either with their own backings or with backings that you buy. If you feed your senior in the kitchen, which probably has a bare floor, putting a rug in the feeding area can help her stay on all fours while she eats
Warming up. Most elderly people are more sensitive to cold temperatures than younger folks are, and most elderly dogs are the same way. Your mobility-challenged senior will probably feel much more comfortable if you turn up your thermostat a couple of degrees in the winter and use a little less air conditioning in the summer.
Giving her a raise. Or, more accurately, giving her dishes a raise. A dog whose back hurts or has trouble bending down will be grateful to eat from dishes that are lifted up from the floor. Many pet-supply companies sell platforms that you can set food bowls on; you can also rig up your own doggy place setting simply by placing the food bowls atop a low bench.
Do not raise your dog's dishes from the floor if she's at risk for bloat, a potentially deadly condition in which gas fills the stomach and compresses the surrounding organs. Dogs who are at risk include large dogs with narrow chests, dogs who've already had bloat, or dogs with one or more relatives who've had it. A dog's risk increases with age, and the condition can be fatal if left untreated.
One of the toughest aspects of caring for a dog who's losing mobility is the feeling that you're alone in the task. Able Dogs, an electronic mailing list, can put you in touch with other owners of mobility-challenged dogs.
Getting around your home and into your car may be easy for you, but for a dog who has locomotion limitations, home turf and car entry may seem like obstacle courses. Slippery floors, steep stairs, high-car entrances, and chilly indoor temperatures can make your creaky-jointed pooch uncomfortable. You can make minor alterations that ease your pooch's pain and lessen the challenge of negotiating her home turf.
Some alterations you may want to make include
Ramping up. If your senior companion can't hop up into your car the way she used to, make it possible for her to forego hopping altogether. You can get a slanted ramp that lets her walk up into your car rather than jump into it — which gives her sore muscles and joints some much-needed relief and spares you from lifting her into the car.
When you're not using your doggy ramp, tuck it behind the driver's seat. Such placement prevents the ramp from becoming an airborne missile if you must stop suddenly.
Stepping up. Senior dogs who can't get themselves up on a couch or human bed will probably welcome some carpeted steps to preclude the need for jumping. A company called Dog Bed Works sells such products in two-step, three-step, and four-step sizes.
Bedding down. Sure, your dog didn't mind sleeping on the cold, hard floor when she was younger — but now that she's older, she may enjoy having some heat and some cushioning. Soft, cushy beds can cradle your four-legged friend in soft-as-a-cloud comfort. Orthopedic beds —also known as egg-crate beds, because the mattress looks like the inside of an empty egg carton — have special foam linings that can add to your dog's luxury. Some orthopedic beds even have heating elements to increase that sense of ease. You can find good dog beds, orthopedic and otherwise, at any pet superstore.
To keep your senior comfy no matter where she is, try placing beds not only where she usually sleeps at night, but also at other favorite places in your home. There's no law against a dog having more than one bed!
Giving her some stockings. Many older dogs have calluses on their elbows from years of lying on hard floors and other surfaces. The constant rubbing of the dogs' elbow on the floor causes the hair to wear away and the exposed skin to thicken. A callus can actually protect the elbows, but if it gets painful, a product called DogLeggs can help. The product looks like a stocking that's open at both ends, and it's lined with fleece. Simply pull the stocking over your dog's paw, onto her leg, and over her elbow. You can order one or more pairs of DogLeggs, which are custom-fit to your dog's measurements.
De-flooring it. Bare floors can be tough on your older pooch because they don't offer any traction. You could install wall-to-wall carpeting in your home, but a cheaper option is to add some rugs in strategic places. Make sure, though, that the rugs adhere to the floor either with their own backings or with backings that you buy. If you feed your senior in the kitchen, which probably has a bare floor, putting a rug in the feeding area can help her stay on all fours while she eats
Warming up. Most elderly people are more sensitive to cold temperatures than younger folks are, and most elderly dogs are the same way. Your mobility-challenged senior will probably feel much more comfortable if you turn up your thermostat a couple of degrees in the winter and use a little less air conditioning in the summer.
Giving her a raise. Or, more accurately, giving her dishes a raise. A dog whose back hurts or has trouble bending down will be grateful to eat from dishes that are lifted up from the floor. Many pet-supply companies sell platforms that you can set food bowls on; you can also rig up your own doggy place setting simply by placing the food bowls atop a low bench.
Do not raise your dog's dishes from the floor if she's at risk for bloat, a potentially deadly condition in which gas fills the stomach and compresses the surrounding organs. Dogs who are at risk include large dogs with narrow chests, dogs who've already had bloat, or dogs with one or more relatives who've had it. A dog's risk increases with age, and the condition can be fatal if left untreated.
One of the toughest aspects of caring for a dog who's losing mobility is the feeling that you're alone in the task. Able Dogs, an electronic mailing list, can put you in touch with other owners of mobility-challenged dogs.
11/06/2008
Exploring the Pros and Cons of Designer Dogs
A designer dog is a dog whose parents were both purebred dogs of different breeds. For example, a Golden Doodle has one parent who is a purebred Golden Retriever, and another parent who is a purebred Poodle. His mother may have been the Poodle, and his father may have been the Golden Retriever — or vice versa. The designer dog was bred intentionally by a designer-dog breeder. A non-designer mixed-breed dog is a dog who was bred either intentionally or by accident. One or both of his parents were not purebred dogs.
Although breeders of designer dogs feel they're meeting the needs of a particular niche of people, purebred breeders and purebred dog clubs, such as the American Kennel Club, think the entire trend is dangerous to all dogs.
The pros
One of the advantages of designer dogs is the sheer number of varieties available. More than 200 different hybrid combinations exist, which means there is a designer dog for every taste. Most of these hybrids are small and designed to have good personality combined with adorability
Designer dogs are created to fit every need — from pocket-size dogs for easy travel to low-shed dogs for those with allergies. Many of these designer-dog creations are free of some of the traits that can make life difficult for the purebred dog. For example, some purebreds, like the Pug, have a very short snout, making breathing difficult. But the popular Puggle — the hybrid of a Pug and a Beagle — has a longer nose while still maintaining the Pug's wrinkled forehead and loopy gait.
Many hybrid breeders claim their dogs have hybrid vigor, a strength that comes from having parents of two different breeds. The offspring of two different breeds rarely inherit genetic defects, because the bloodlines aren't as close as those of purebreds. Purebred dogs often have inherited traits that can cause genetic defects. For example, many retriever breeds tend to have cataracts or epilepsy, many large-breed dogs have hip dysplasia, and many small-breed dogs are prone to dental problems. Mixed-breed dogs rarely inherit these genetic defects, because their genetics are more varied. (Incidentally, this is true of all mixed-breed dogs, not just designer dogs or hybrids.)
The cons
The major con of designer dogs is the price. Most designer dogs cost upwards of $700, whereas many purebred dogs begin at $250. (Of course, mixed breed dogs are widely available for adoption, typically at prices set by rescue groups or animal shelters.)
Although each designer dog was bred for specific appearance and traits, there's a good chance that some or all of them will not develop in the offspring. Mixing breeds is chancy, because the outcome is not absolute. Although purebred dog offspring will always mature to appear like the parent dogs, the hybrid offspring may appear more like one parent than the other, or have a personality more like one parent than the other. So, although you might be searching for a small Yorkipoo, the pup might grow up to be the size of a large Yorkshire Terrier instead of a Teacup Poodle.
As much as the breeders of designer dogs claim that mixing two breeds improves the offspring's overall health, that presumption is debatable. Although many of the puppies don't show symptoms of the recessive genetic dysfunctions commonly seen in purebred dogs, many other puppies do. In fact, a hybrid puppy can have the poor luck to inherit the worst physical and temperament traits of both parents.
Although breeders of designer dogs feel they're meeting the needs of a particular niche of people, purebred breeders and purebred dog clubs, such as the American Kennel Club, think the entire trend is dangerous to all dogs.
The pros
One of the advantages of designer dogs is the sheer number of varieties available. More than 200 different hybrid combinations exist, which means there is a designer dog for every taste. Most of these hybrids are small and designed to have good personality combined with adorability
Designer dogs are created to fit every need — from pocket-size dogs for easy travel to low-shed dogs for those with allergies. Many of these designer-dog creations are free of some of the traits that can make life difficult for the purebred dog. For example, some purebreds, like the Pug, have a very short snout, making breathing difficult. But the popular Puggle — the hybrid of a Pug and a Beagle — has a longer nose while still maintaining the Pug's wrinkled forehead and loopy gait.
Many hybrid breeders claim their dogs have hybrid vigor, a strength that comes from having parents of two different breeds. The offspring of two different breeds rarely inherit genetic defects, because the bloodlines aren't as close as those of purebreds. Purebred dogs often have inherited traits that can cause genetic defects. For example, many retriever breeds tend to have cataracts or epilepsy, many large-breed dogs have hip dysplasia, and many small-breed dogs are prone to dental problems. Mixed-breed dogs rarely inherit these genetic defects, because their genetics are more varied. (Incidentally, this is true of all mixed-breed dogs, not just designer dogs or hybrids.)
The cons
The major con of designer dogs is the price. Most designer dogs cost upwards of $700, whereas many purebred dogs begin at $250. (Of course, mixed breed dogs are widely available for adoption, typically at prices set by rescue groups or animal shelters.)
Although each designer dog was bred for specific appearance and traits, there's a good chance that some or all of them will not develop in the offspring. Mixing breeds is chancy, because the outcome is not absolute. Although purebred dog offspring will always mature to appear like the parent dogs, the hybrid offspring may appear more like one parent than the other, or have a personality more like one parent than the other. So, although you might be searching for a small Yorkipoo, the pup might grow up to be the size of a large Yorkshire Terrier instead of a Teacup Poodle.
As much as the breeders of designer dogs claim that mixing two breeds improves the offspring's overall health, that presumption is debatable. Although many of the puppies don't show symptoms of the recessive genetic dysfunctions commonly seen in purebred dogs, many other puppies do. In fact, a hybrid puppy can have the poor luck to inherit the worst physical and temperament traits of both parents.
24/05/2008
Introducing Your New Yorkshire Terrier to Other Family Pets
Your human children, if you have any, are probably gleeful that the new Yorkie is finally home. Your other animal companions, however, may be much less enthusiastic. Your task is to make the introductions and make sure the interactions don't get out of hand.
The presence of the puppy alone is going to introduce stress for your other animals until they figure out what they're going to have to deal with. To make the stress as minimal as possible, choose a relatively quiet time and location to introduce your animals to one another.
Dog, meet dog
Here's a peek at normal canine greeting rituals. In addition to sniffing, you may see a lot of bluffing: the showing of teeth, raising hackles, and shoulder pawing. Don't panic, even though your older dog may look like he's just barely tolerating the precocious puppy skidding around him. Your dogs are doing what dogs do when they first meet: sizing one another up in order to determine who's dominant. It's an essential first step if you ever hope for harmony in your dogs' relationship.
If your other dog is much larger than your Yorkie, the shoulder pawing may be a problem just because of the sheer weight and power of the bigger dog. To reduce the risk that your Yorkie will get hurt, be extra vigilant. In fact, if you have a much larger dog — especially one who still displays puppy behavior himself, is very exuberant, or isn't particularly well trained — a Yorkie probably isn't a good choice for your family.
Here are some suggestions for keeping the initial meetings between your pets calm:
Stay close by but don't interfere unless you think that the bluffing is escalating to aggression. Your dogs have to come to their own conclusions about each other, and they can't do that with you cooing "Be nice" like a mantra or pacing back and forth, wringing your hands.
If you notice any signs of aggression, end the introductions immediately. Signs of aggression include
• Crouching and hugging the ground, with ears pinned back to the head
• Glaring (hard stares)
• Deep-throated growling
• A general, tense stillness
If you're not sure how your older dog is going to react, put both dogs on leashes before the introduction and have someone there who can help you pull the two dogs apart if things get out of hand.
Don't force the dogs to interact. Some dogs rush up to sniff at the new puppy; others stand back and observe for a while. Similarly, when your older dog is ready to leave, let him. Don't force him to stay and submit to any more juvenile antics. If the puppy tries to follow him, hold the pup back.
Let the dogs establish their hierarchy and then abide by it. Until the puppy earns a higher place in the pack, she's the low dog on the totem pole as far as your other dog is concerned. Although she may become the dominant dog later, she's not now. Don't undermine this hierarchy — even unwittingly. Follow these suggestions:
• Don't hold the puppy up for introductions. Height equals status to dogs. The higher dog is the more dominant one. So let the dogs greet each other at their natural levels.
• To help your older dog come to terms with the new arrival, reinforce his dominant status by greeting him first and giving him the most attention.
After your dogs settle the dog hierarchy and accept their individual status (as either dominant or submissive), your home is going to be pretty peaceful. But as your puppy grows and her personality becomes more apparent, the dynamics between the two dogs continue to shift. Occasionally, they get along fine; other times they snap and argue with one another. You usually see these upsets at hot spots — places where dominance challenges are likely to happen: food dishes, doorways, favorite pillows, treat time, and so on.
When you have a Yorkie, especially if your other dog is much larger, be aware of where the hot spots are so that you can eliminate any problems or intervene if things get rough. For example, you can feed the dogs separately, if necessary.
Hello, kitty
Maybe your cat will become great friends with your new puppy (a likelier scenario if she's a kitten when he's a pup). Maybe she'll consider him nothing more than a toy to wind up and let go. Maybe she'll avoid him entirely. As unfair as the situation may be from the canine perspective, the creature in control of this relationship is the cat. Why? Because she doesn't have to stick around any longer than she wants to, and she has the tools (speed and agility) to escape.
The introduction between your puppy and your cat is likely to be brief, consisting of however long it takes the cat to decide she's seen enough — an opinion she may very well form from the top of the refrigerator without bothering to get up close and personal.
To aid inter-species harmony, keep these tips in mind:
Keep the puppy on a leash when the cat comes near. If the cat runs, your Yorkie may give chase.
If the cat hisses or swats at your Yorkie, stay calm. Don't scold her and don't baby him. Simply call an end to the introduction (if the cat hasn't done so already).
When your cat is ready to leave, let her go. The goal of the first meeting is simply to make introductions, not friends — yet. That may come with time (and without your interfering). And if all you manage to achieve is noncombatant status, that's fine, too.
Here's the rest of the gang
If you have birds, gerbils, hamsters, iguanas, geckos, or other such pets, you need to make introductions (that is, let the animals see one another) only if you let the other critters out to roam the house — even if they roam in a critter cruiser — or if your Yorkie can access their living environment. Introduce them to each other a few days after your puppy's homecoming, when she's had a chance to get used to her environment but you're still closely supervising her.
Keep these pointers in mind:
Make sure you don't unintentionally encourage inappropriate behavior. Laughing at her behavior, trying to coax her out of it, or giving her anything she can construe as positive attention will give her the impression that jumping and barking at the guinea pigs in the guinea pig cage is just A-okay with you. Instead, say "no" in a firm voice and take her away from the cage. If she persists, give her a few minutes of timeout in her crate.
Remember that Yorkies are terriers, originally bred to hunt rats. A small animal — especially one who runs away — is an almost impossible-to-resist temptation. Unless you train your Yorkie to leave your small pets alone — and she's consistently proved that you can trust her — never let your small critter run free when your Yorkie's around and unsupervised.
The presence of the puppy alone is going to introduce stress for your other animals until they figure out what they're going to have to deal with. To make the stress as minimal as possible, choose a relatively quiet time and location to introduce your animals to one another.
Dog, meet dog
Here's a peek at normal canine greeting rituals. In addition to sniffing, you may see a lot of bluffing: the showing of teeth, raising hackles, and shoulder pawing. Don't panic, even though your older dog may look like he's just barely tolerating the precocious puppy skidding around him. Your dogs are doing what dogs do when they first meet: sizing one another up in order to determine who's dominant. It's an essential first step if you ever hope for harmony in your dogs' relationship.
If your other dog is much larger than your Yorkie, the shoulder pawing may be a problem just because of the sheer weight and power of the bigger dog. To reduce the risk that your Yorkie will get hurt, be extra vigilant. In fact, if you have a much larger dog — especially one who still displays puppy behavior himself, is very exuberant, or isn't particularly well trained — a Yorkie probably isn't a good choice for your family.
Here are some suggestions for keeping the initial meetings between your pets calm:
Stay close by but don't interfere unless you think that the bluffing is escalating to aggression. Your dogs have to come to their own conclusions about each other, and they can't do that with you cooing "Be nice" like a mantra or pacing back and forth, wringing your hands.
If you notice any signs of aggression, end the introductions immediately. Signs of aggression include
• Crouching and hugging the ground, with ears pinned back to the head
• Glaring (hard stares)
• Deep-throated growling
• A general, tense stillness
If you're not sure how your older dog is going to react, put both dogs on leashes before the introduction and have someone there who can help you pull the two dogs apart if things get out of hand.
Don't force the dogs to interact. Some dogs rush up to sniff at the new puppy; others stand back and observe for a while. Similarly, when your older dog is ready to leave, let him. Don't force him to stay and submit to any more juvenile antics. If the puppy tries to follow him, hold the pup back.
Let the dogs establish their hierarchy and then abide by it. Until the puppy earns a higher place in the pack, she's the low dog on the totem pole as far as your other dog is concerned. Although she may become the dominant dog later, she's not now. Don't undermine this hierarchy — even unwittingly. Follow these suggestions:
• Don't hold the puppy up for introductions. Height equals status to dogs. The higher dog is the more dominant one. So let the dogs greet each other at their natural levels.
• To help your older dog come to terms with the new arrival, reinforce his dominant status by greeting him first and giving him the most attention.
After your dogs settle the dog hierarchy and accept their individual status (as either dominant or submissive), your home is going to be pretty peaceful. But as your puppy grows and her personality becomes more apparent, the dynamics between the two dogs continue to shift. Occasionally, they get along fine; other times they snap and argue with one another. You usually see these upsets at hot spots — places where dominance challenges are likely to happen: food dishes, doorways, favorite pillows, treat time, and so on.
When you have a Yorkie, especially if your other dog is much larger, be aware of where the hot spots are so that you can eliminate any problems or intervene if things get rough. For example, you can feed the dogs separately, if necessary.
Hello, kitty
Maybe your cat will become great friends with your new puppy (a likelier scenario if she's a kitten when he's a pup). Maybe she'll consider him nothing more than a toy to wind up and let go. Maybe she'll avoid him entirely. As unfair as the situation may be from the canine perspective, the creature in control of this relationship is the cat. Why? Because she doesn't have to stick around any longer than she wants to, and she has the tools (speed and agility) to escape.
The introduction between your puppy and your cat is likely to be brief, consisting of however long it takes the cat to decide she's seen enough — an opinion she may very well form from the top of the refrigerator without bothering to get up close and personal.
To aid inter-species harmony, keep these tips in mind:
Keep the puppy on a leash when the cat comes near. If the cat runs, your Yorkie may give chase.
If the cat hisses or swats at your Yorkie, stay calm. Don't scold her and don't baby him. Simply call an end to the introduction (if the cat hasn't done so already).
When your cat is ready to leave, let her go. The goal of the first meeting is simply to make introductions, not friends — yet. That may come with time (and without your interfering). And if all you manage to achieve is noncombatant status, that's fine, too.
Here's the rest of the gang
If you have birds, gerbils, hamsters, iguanas, geckos, or other such pets, you need to make introductions (that is, let the animals see one another) only if you let the other critters out to roam the house — even if they roam in a critter cruiser — or if your Yorkie can access their living environment. Introduce them to each other a few days after your puppy's homecoming, when she's had a chance to get used to her environment but you're still closely supervising her.
Keep these pointers in mind:
Make sure you don't unintentionally encourage inappropriate behavior. Laughing at her behavior, trying to coax her out of it, or giving her anything she can construe as positive attention will give her the impression that jumping and barking at the guinea pigs in the guinea pig cage is just A-okay with you. Instead, say "no" in a firm voice and take her away from the cage. If she persists, give her a few minutes of timeout in her crate.
Remember that Yorkies are terriers, originally bred to hunt rats. A small animal — especially one who runs away — is an almost impossible-to-resist temptation. Unless you train your Yorkie to leave your small pets alone — and she's consistently proved that you can trust her — never let your small critter run free when your Yorkie's around and unsupervised.
23/05/2008
Your Puppy's First Veterinary Exam
Your puppy's first trip to the veterinarian is almost as much about educating you as checking out the puppy. Besides your many questions and concerns, you need to bring two things with your puppy to the first exam. The first is whatever health information the seller or shelter provided to you, such as records of vaccinations and wormings. The second is a fresh stool, which is examined for the presence of parasites.
While answering your questions, your veterinarian will likely do the following:
Weigh your puppy and check her temperature — 100 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit is normal — as well as her pulse and breathing rate.
Listen for heart and lung abnormalities and examine other internal organs by palpating, or feeling them.
Give your puppy's ears a going-over to ensure they not only look right but also smell right — no infections or parasites.
Check the puppy's genitals to ensure two testicles are present in males and there's no sign of discharge or infection in females.
Go over eyes, nose, skin, and the anal region carefully to check for discharge or other signs of disease or parasites.
Open the puppy's mouth to see that teeth and gums look as they should.
A puppy exam is one of the best parts of a veterinarian's job, and your vet should work to keep it fun for the puppy as well. Your vet wants to set up a relationship where your puppy accommodates being handled without fear or aggression. You are an important part of this learning process. Do not encourage shyness or aggression in your puppy by soothing her. Be positive and matter-of-fact in all your pup's social interactions in order to raise a confident, secure dog.
Because your puppy's immunity against disease is not yet like that of an adult dog, be sure to carry your puppy into the veterinary hospital, and don't let her interact with other dogs. Inside the exam room, the veterinary staff takes precautions to protect your pet, such as cleaning off the exam table with disinfectants and washing their hands between patients.
Also, you're sure to have at least one urgent trip to the veterinarian's while raising your puppy — most people do — so make sure that you know what you should look for. The following are signs that your puppy needs immediate care:
Allergic reactions, such as swelling around the face, or hives, most easily seen on the belly
Any eye injury, no matter how mild
Any respiratory problem: Chronic coughing, trouble breathing, or near drowning
Any signs of pain: Painting, labored breathing, increased body temperature, lethargy, restlessness, or loss of appetite
Any suspected poisoning, including ingestion of antifreeze, rodent or snail bait, or human medication
Any wound or laceration that's open and bleeding, or any animal bite
Seizure, fainting, or collapse
Snake bite
Thermal Stress, either too cold or too hot, even if the dog seems to have recovered
Trauma, such as being hit by a car, even if the dog seems fine
Vomiting or diarrhea, anything more than two or three times within an hour
While answering your questions, your veterinarian will likely do the following:
Weigh your puppy and check her temperature — 100 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit is normal — as well as her pulse and breathing rate.
Listen for heart and lung abnormalities and examine other internal organs by palpating, or feeling them.
Give your puppy's ears a going-over to ensure they not only look right but also smell right — no infections or parasites.
Check the puppy's genitals to ensure two testicles are present in males and there's no sign of discharge or infection in females.
Go over eyes, nose, skin, and the anal region carefully to check for discharge or other signs of disease or parasites.
Open the puppy's mouth to see that teeth and gums look as they should.
A puppy exam is one of the best parts of a veterinarian's job, and your vet should work to keep it fun for the puppy as well. Your vet wants to set up a relationship where your puppy accommodates being handled without fear or aggression. You are an important part of this learning process. Do not encourage shyness or aggression in your puppy by soothing her. Be positive and matter-of-fact in all your pup's social interactions in order to raise a confident, secure dog.
Because your puppy's immunity against disease is not yet like that of an adult dog, be sure to carry your puppy into the veterinary hospital, and don't let her interact with other dogs. Inside the exam room, the veterinary staff takes precautions to protect your pet, such as cleaning off the exam table with disinfectants and washing their hands between patients.
Also, you're sure to have at least one urgent trip to the veterinarian's while raising your puppy — most people do — so make sure that you know what you should look for. The following are signs that your puppy needs immediate care:
Allergic reactions, such as swelling around the face, or hives, most easily seen on the belly
Any eye injury, no matter how mild
Any respiratory problem: Chronic coughing, trouble breathing, or near drowning
Any signs of pain: Painting, labored breathing, increased body temperature, lethargy, restlessness, or loss of appetite
Any suspected poisoning, including ingestion of antifreeze, rodent or snail bait, or human medication
Any wound or laceration that's open and bleeding, or any animal bite
Seizure, fainting, or collapse
Snake bite
Thermal Stress, either too cold or too hot, even if the dog seems to have recovered
Trauma, such as being hit by a car, even if the dog seems fine
Vomiting or diarrhea, anything more than two or three times within an hour
19/05/2008
Hiring a Pet Sitter for Your Dog
Finding someone reliable who is willing to stay with your dog or drop in on him several times during the day while you're away can be a better alternative than boarding your dog in a kennel. He'll get to stay home with familiar smells and sounds. He'll have access to all his favorite toys and bedding. He won't be exposed to kennel cough or fleas. Plus, he may get some extra attention — and treats — from one of his favorite humans!
Your neighbor or friend makes an excellent dog sitter during short trips, but if you're going to be away for an extended period, you can hire a professional dog sitter to care for your pet. They typically charge between $10 and $30 per day, depending on the services they provide and how many pets you have.
Ask your veterinarian or fellow dog club members for pet sitter recommendations. Often, word of mouth is a good reference. You can also visit the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters or Pet Sitters International to search for a pet sitter in your area.
When you have a list of potential dog sitters, schedule an appointment with each one to visit your home and meet your pet. You'll know right away if you — and your dog — like her! A good dog sitter will develop a rapport with your dog right away.
Use this list of questions to interview potential dog sitters.
Do you belong to a professional pet-sitting organization, such as the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters? Your candidate doesn't necessarily have to belong, but members of groups like these have met basic handling standards set by the organization.
Do you have references? Confident pet sitters will happily provide you a list of satisfied clients. Call the references and ask if they would hire the pet sitter again.
Are you insured and bonded? Ask to see proof of commercial liability insurance and ask exactly what coverage it provides.
How long have you been working as a pet sitter? Have you ever dog-sat for a breed like yours? A top candidate should have some experience caring for breeds similar to or the same as your dog — or at least for dogs of similar size.
What experience do you have with medical care? Do you know canine CPR? First aid? If your dog has an emergency, this person should be able to provide or obtain emergency care and treatment.
When will you come to my home? How long will you stay? Your candidate should come at least twice a day to feed and check on your dog. She should also spend some time with him playing fetch, taking a walk, or just hanging out and watching television.
When you find a quality pet sitter, hold on to her! Notify her well in advance of trips so she can block off the time. Invite her to your home while you're there so she can bond with your dog before you leave. She will be caring for your baby during your trip, so prepare everything she'll need to make her job easy — and fun!
Your neighbor or friend makes an excellent dog sitter during short trips, but if you're going to be away for an extended period, you can hire a professional dog sitter to care for your pet. They typically charge between $10 and $30 per day, depending on the services they provide and how many pets you have.
Ask your veterinarian or fellow dog club members for pet sitter recommendations. Often, word of mouth is a good reference. You can also visit the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters or Pet Sitters International to search for a pet sitter in your area.
When you have a list of potential dog sitters, schedule an appointment with each one to visit your home and meet your pet. You'll know right away if you — and your dog — like her! A good dog sitter will develop a rapport with your dog right away.
Use this list of questions to interview potential dog sitters.
Do you belong to a professional pet-sitting organization, such as the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters? Your candidate doesn't necessarily have to belong, but members of groups like these have met basic handling standards set by the organization.
Do you have references? Confident pet sitters will happily provide you a list of satisfied clients. Call the references and ask if they would hire the pet sitter again.
Are you insured and bonded? Ask to see proof of commercial liability insurance and ask exactly what coverage it provides.
How long have you been working as a pet sitter? Have you ever dog-sat for a breed like yours? A top candidate should have some experience caring for breeds similar to or the same as your dog — or at least for dogs of similar size.
What experience do you have with medical care? Do you know canine CPR? First aid? If your dog has an emergency, this person should be able to provide or obtain emergency care and treatment.
When will you come to my home? How long will you stay? Your candidate should come at least twice a day to feed and check on your dog. She should also spend some time with him playing fetch, taking a walk, or just hanging out and watching television.
When you find a quality pet sitter, hold on to her! Notify her well in advance of trips so she can block off the time. Invite her to your home while you're there so she can bond with your dog before you leave. She will be caring for your baby during your trip, so prepare everything she'll need to make her job easy — and fun!
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